FOSTER handbook
Foster / Adoption Trial Handbook
Introduction
This handbook applies to both foster and trial run. Please read carefully. Thank you for agreeing to foster/trial a dog for Real Good Rescue. Foster homes like yours allow us to rescue more dogs and we appreciate your generosity by opening your home. By providing a foster home, you’re providing a stable, loving environment for a dog that has been neglected and abandoned. You’re also providing some much-needed socialization and basic training that will make our dogs more appealing for adoption and better overall members of their adoptive families and society.
General Guidelines:
Please read & review the following important guidelines:
Prior to fostering, all Foster Homes must sign agreement as well as agree to a home check. All Foster Homes agree to accept primary responsibility for providing lodging and care of their foster dog until a permanent adoptive family is found. RGR will provide your Foster dog’s food unless you offered to sponsor food on your Foster Application. Your Foster Coordinator will consult with you on what foods/treats are appropriate for your particular foster dog. RGR will provide dog food and all supplies unless otherwise arranged between the foster family and RGR. Foster dog may only use collars and leashes provided and/or approved by RGR. Medical care will be provided only via a RGR representative. If you think your Foster Dog needs any medical care, including vet visits or over-the- counter medications, please contact your Foster Coordinator before acting. All RGR dogs are seen by RGR resident Veterinary staff, located in Los Angeles.
The vet’s office we use depends on the particular needs of that dog. If there is a medical emergency, please get your Foster dog to the nearest Veterinarian Hospital and call Terah on the way (212) 729-4395 or Nai’a (808) 283-2580. You must notify us IMMEDIATELY when there is an emergency of any kind. Foster Homes are not required to foster any dog that they do not wish to foster. However, there may not be an immediate alternate foster home for your dog. We will work on moving your foster dog out as soon as possible, but ask for your understanding as we work on it. Volunteers and/or Foster Homes are not authorized to pull dogs directly from the shelter or place any dog in RGR foster program. In other words, the 30 Days begins the day we receive written notice via EMAIL ONLY hello@realgood.dog. RGR is then permitted 30 days from that recorded day to find an alternate foster home and move the RGR Dog. The foster is still responsible for keeping the foster dog separated and safe (if necessary) until alternative arrangements have been made. Your own dogs should be current with their vaccinations, prior to receiving your foster dog. We also recommend that you vaccinate your resident dogs with the Bordetella vaccination to prevent kennel cough, a common illness with shelter dogs.
Although kennel cough is like a common cold and just needs time to pass on most dogs, there are always higher risks with some dogs who may not have as strong an immune system. This is a RGR recommendation. RGR is not responsible for any veterinary bills for resident dogs. The Foster Home assumes responsibility for any veterinary bills that result from resident dogs becoming ill due to exposure to a foster dog or any altercations with a RGR foster dog. RGR is also NOT responsible for vet care that is a result of handler error. We are a non-profit rescue that relies solely on donations to save dog’s lives therefore we are very limited in our finances. If a foster handler somehow has an “accident” (ie: falls, loses control of the dog and the dog gets injured as a result OR permitting foster dog to interact with new dogs that result in an altercation OR any result of our rules being broken), then the foster family is responsible for getting the foster dog to the nearest vet and covering the costs associated with the health care. We do our best to support our fosters in every way, however we cannot be liable for mistakes or accidents that happen regularly without regard for our policies and procedures.
Please follow our guidelines and precautions in order to minimize these accidents. RGR will however cover the expenses of truly legitimate, unforeseen medical emergencies that are not a result of our Foster Rules being broken. We require a 30 day notice for vacation time planned. If you are able to make alternative plans for someone to watch your foster dog while you are away, please consult directly with our Foster Coordinator in order to obtain approval. If you want to take your foster dog with you on a trip, even just for a weekend, you MUST notify RGR beforehand and obtain approval. Foster dogs legally belong to RGR and we are liable for them, so it is imperative that you consult with our Foster Coordinator anytime you want do anything out of the ordinary with your foster dog. Our Foster dogs and our foster families are a reflection of our rescue, so please be mindful of your decisions and actions. Do not leave your dog with anyone else without prior approval from TPR. Anytime a foster dog is left we MUST have a signed release of liability. This is a MUST.
Getting along
Dogs are pack animals. There is usually one who dominates. Correction of one dog by another (whether it is your resident dog or the foster) is normal. As long as the dogs are responding positively to each other and seem to recognize the “pecking order”, this is fine. One dog may growl at another. If the dog reacts by moving away or showing passivity, then usually, the dogs will get along fine. If they are constantly battling for the “alpha” position, then they will have to be separated, and may not be a good fit for each other. Keeping the dogs separate is not the worst thing for the dogs. Most of the time as they become more comfortable, they can happily co-habitate and crate-rotate safely without any issues. There is a misconception about this being a “cruel” or “unfair” situation, but we would like to remind you, that it is temporary and the alternative for that dog would be euthanasia. So looking at things diplomatically, is it better that you crate and rotate two dogs OR that one be euthanized? Obviously saving the dogs life is our ultimate goal so a temporary crate and rotate foster environment is NOT the worst thing. Never leave the dogs unsupervised together. They are still getting to know one another, and will need correction on appropriate behavior toward each other, which means supervision. If you are leaving the house, then crate the dogs or at least the foster dog in a separate area. Again, feed the dogs separately. Your Foster dog should be fed in his crate, as this is a safe place for him to eat and will make his crate a more desirable location. This also reduces stress for everyone. Food aggression between dogs is very common. Please do not take it upon yourself to work through these sort of major issues without a RGR member present.
Working With Your Foster Dog
While your foster dog is living with you, you can provide some basic training along with lots of tender loving care. No formal training regimen is needed for most foster dogs, but if you can work on the following, it will make your foster dog much more “adoptable.” If there are particular issues that need to be addressed, RGR will provide the training/oversight necessary. Socializing is definitely the first priority. This means ensuring that your foster dog is acclimated to meeting new people, dogs, cats, children, as wide a group as possible. If you have a shy dog, this is a big task, and should be approached slowly (but all the more important to address it so that your dog overcomes his/her shyness.) Dog parks are not allowed. There are too many risky factors involved. With a more outgoing dog, it’s more about curbing enthusiasm so that people aren’t overwhelmed upon meeting the dog (or knocked over with love!) Food aggression with other dogs is a fairly common trait; however food aggression towards people is not acceptable. If your foster dog is growling when you are near his food, you need to work on correcting this behavior. Hand-feed the dog, so that it’s clear the food is yours, and you are the giver of food. Then, when feeding with a bowl, approach and drop higher value goodies into the bowl. Initially, with a dog that is worried you will take his food, you should drop the treats from a standing height and walk away. When the dog is no longer dreading your approach to the food and is, in fact, now anticipating your approach as meaning even BETTER stuff is coming his way, you can work your way down to dropping the goodies at increasingly shorter distances and having him pause in eating to sit and get a treat from you, then return to his meal.
Please do not take food away from a resource-guarding dog, as you will only increase his thought that you are, indeed, going to take it away. With a non-food aggressive dog, these are still good tips, along with trading chewies for a higher value item, then giving them back. Another good reason to crate your foster dog, as you can use that place as a safe place to give treats, chews, and toys. House training (potty training) is definitely desirable for both you and the future adopter. The best way to house train is to use a crate, and to be vigilant about taking the dog outside regularly, including after naps and meals. If a dog is particularly stubborn about house training, keep them on a leash in the house; this will prevent them from wandering off to hide to go potty.
Crate Training is a great way not only to potty train, but also to establish general house manners since the dog will not be roaming free in the house unless he/she is being supervised. So, no chewing on couch cushions, counter-surfing, or garbage can diving. Sitting is relatively easy to teach and pays big dividends. A dog that sits for his/her leash and food learns impulse control and that the way to what they desire is good manners. It also helps to get an overly excited dog under control. “Watch-Me’s” are an important skill to help our foster dogs cope with different situations. We choose to use food as lures. Take your hand with the treat in it, pass it by the dog's nose so he can smell it and take the treat to your forehead between your eyes (of course, the dog's eyes should be following that treat!). Use the treat like a refrigerator magnet from his nose to your forehead. Make sure he's been able to smell the treat. As soon as his eyes meet yours, treat him (within the count of 2). Remember you need to give him the treat within the count of 2 seconds. You should only need to do this a couple of times before the dog gets that looking in your eye is what gets him the treat. At this point, we fade the food lure altogether and use the food as a distraction. Hold the treat out from your body. The dog will stare intently at the treat and may offer behaviors (like sits or downs) to earn the reward. Wait patiently; as the dog will eventually flick a glance at your face to try to figure out what, exactly, you want. INSTANTLY, reward the glance with a marker work (like YES). Once the dog is consistently looking to you for the treat, you can begin to add duration (ask for a longer look) this is a fun game to play with toys too!
Jumping up is a common problem with our foster dogs—they are so happy to have someone to love! But, it’s best if they are taught not to do this, since it can knock people over or just be rude. The best prevention is to see it coming and tell them to stop and sit. Once they have this down, they can be invited “up” for a visit, but only with an invitation. Leash walking is challenging to teach. Many of our dogs have never been on a leash and have no idea how to behave. If you’re ambitious, you can work on “heal”, but even “easy” is fine. “Easy” is when the dog isn’t necessarily healing at your side, but they are also not dragging you down the street. This takes time to learn and patience on your part. A nervous dog may not be pulling but be reluctant to walk or trying to get away from you and the leash. The goal then is to get the dog to relax and walk confidently with you. We can give you some pointers on either of these cases.
Cat Introductions
There may be dogs that we highly recommend not be introduced to cats. And there maybe dogs that we are unsure of how they are with cats. Which is the most common case in dogs that come into our rescue.
First, make sure that your cat has his/her own sanctuary—preferably a room where the foster dog will not be allowed to go. If you can keep the cat’s food & litter box in this room, and keep the door closed, then the dog & cat can sniff each other under the door for a few days before meeting face to face. This will make things go a lot smoother, as they will most likely feel they
have already “met.” Supervise the dog’s behavior even at the door, reinforce playful, curious behavior and correct any aggression or obsession.
When introducing the dog & cat for the first time, put the dog in his crate & just allow the cat to walk by if he/she wants to. Here, you’re looking to evaluate both the dog & the cat. Is the cat fearful or curious? Is the dog happy/playful or chomping at the bit to play? All cat introductions must be handled by a licensed trainer through RGR.
After introductions have occurred, keep in mind the following tips:
Never leave the cat & foster dog unsupervised, even if it looks like they get along great. A playful dog can still unintentionally harm a cat.
Make sure your cat has places to jump up to in each room or hide under where the dog can’t get him/her.
Playful chasing is normal, but always remind the foster dog to play nice/slow down/not run.
Don’t allow the dog to stare down the cat. The dog should know that he/she is not allowed to obsess on the cat.
The cat may swipe at the dog or hiss in order to correct. This is usually a great help in ensuring the dog knows his/her place. But, keep an eye on all interactions to ensure the cat doesn’t injure the dog as well.
With all your resident pets, allow the animals to accept one another on their own time. Never push them toward each other or force interaction. Many animals become companions and playmates, while others simply tolerate each other.
Dogs & Children
At no time leave a child and foster dog unsupervised. If you are unable to directly supervise your foster dog and children the foster dog needs to be safely in their crate. Dogs and kids go together like peanut butter & jelly, they are great playmates, guardians, and confidants. But, children must learn proper handling and discipline, and dogs must learn self-control so that they do not play too rough. Children must be supervised and taught that dogs are beings, not dolls or toys to dress-up or handled constantly. Teach children not to tease or rile up the dog unnecessarily. This includes chasing around the house, which can scare a dog, who may snap if cornered or frightened. Make sure your children know that it is not the dog’s fault if the dog chews up toys that are left out. Keeping doors shut & toys in toy boxes can help minimize damage. Make sure the dog has his/her own toys, and keep them in the same place all the time (like in a basket, or in the dog’s crate.)
Children like the idea of caring for a dog, but the daily work of feeding, bathing, brushing, and cleaning up after the dog is not really suited for them. Recognize that the initial enthusiasm will wane quickly, and the true responsibility of caring for the dog will fall to the adults in the
household. Young children are not to ever walk foster dogs, even if the dog is easy to walk, the child cannot really handle any encounters with other dogs or cats that are bound to happen. Only adults are to handle the foster dog, at all times.
Children should not play unsupervised with foster dogs. For puppies, teach proper handling (pick up by the body, not the limbs), and limit interaction. Children need to be taught that a puppy’s mouthing is not biting, and that the puppy is not trying to hurt them. Children often react to a dog’s bad behavior by hitting the dog, which is unacceptable.
Medical Treatment
Prior to any medical procedure being done, you must contact the RGR Foster Coordinator to get approval. Failure to get prior approval will mean that you forego reimbursement for any basic medical treatment. In addition, even if you are willing to cover vet expenses, we prefer to have the dogs seen by our vets so that the dogs get consistent care and have all of their records centralized.
If the dog is sick, injured, needs to be spayed/neutered, or needs a doctor’s visit for immunization, your Foster Coordinator will make the appropriate arrangements with the Medical Secretary for you at a time that is convenient for you. If you need help transporting the dog to the vet, please let us know. We will do our best to make arrangements, though it is a foster’s responsibility to take their foster dog to the medical appointments. We don’t want the dog to be afraid with someone new when they are in a stressful environment and a visit to the vet can be extremely uncomfortable. It is important for fosters and volunteers to communicate so that they can help one-another as well. You should notify the Foster Coordinator, Naia or Terah, for approval prior to allowing anyone else to transport. Some dogs are more difficult to handle should one get away from your friend who is not as strong as you, and hurt someone, themselves or another animal, you and RGR are liable. So make sure you communicate with RGR and gain approval anytime you will not be accompanying your foster dog to an event or appointment.
Reimbursement Protocol
RGR will reimburse you for: • Pre-approved medical expenses • Any Pre-approved special circumstances
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